It's a beautiful morning here in Ireland. A day for the beach, not the computer but unfortunately ... So have to make do with blogging about Irish surfer Easkey Britton instead. Nominated to the final five of the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards, she's a rarity here; a female big wave surfer. She didn't make the final prize - that went to Keala Kennelly from Hawaii - but says a lot for the time she puts in on the cold water around here that she made it that far. Inspiring indeed.
A report she wrote on the event for Mpora is here. She says: "For me the quote of the night came from Keala Kennelly when she went to claim her Award, “When you ride one of those big waves it doesn’t matter what you got between your legs!” It felt like a win not just for her but for women’s surfing."
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| Easkey Britton pic Laurence J Photography |
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